A Review

Pier 57: Now, that’s got to be an easy restaurant to tag. Right? Scrumptious seafood, and plenty of it, served up in an atmosphere that’s nautical from the moment you enter the front door. I mean, we’re at lest bright enough to figure out that the ‘57’ part comes from the fact that they’re located on that well-traveled CNY route, just five miles north of the village of Liverpool. But why would it be called ‘pier’ if it were anything other than a chowder house of the type you’d stop at while driving near Boston or up by Cape Code?

Well, now, think again, dear readers, because we learned from a most happy dining experience—as well as from talking with Bill Ennis, who owns and runs PIER 57 with his wife Noreen—that seafood is only a small part of the restaurant’s story. As to its name, stick with us, and we’ll inform you as to precisely how and why that came about.

First, though, the true specialty of the house is beef in general, prime rib in particular. PIER 57 is one of the few restaurants to offer prime rib seven days a week—-in part because it’s one of the few CNY restaurants that remains open seven days a week. There are also hand-cut steaks (Bill and Noreen take great pride in both the quality and quantity of the beef dishes they serve), and a wide variety of chicken possibilities as well, including several that are prepared according to Italian recipes.

And, of course, there’s seafood, too.

So let’s unravel the mystery of this most pleasant restaurant’s name. Those of you who have been living in Central New York as long as we have may recall that, nearly thirty years ago, this same building played host to the Bonanza restaurant. Not to be confused, mind you, with the Ponderosa steakhouse chain. The Bonanza was a most casual family restaurant, individually owned and managed. When that property finally ran its course, it gave way first to Pronto Joey’s, and then in time Pier 57.

The trick is, this was before Bill and Noreen came on board. They’re both natives of Central New York; he was raised in Phoenix, she in North Syracuse.

But Bill’s career took them away from the Syracuse market. He managed chain restaurants in five different states. In time, they decided to return home and open a place of their own. That’s when ‘the Pier’ was indeed a well-regarded seafood house on route 57. Just about ten years ago, Bill and Noreen took over operation and always planned to expand the place from a fish-oriented restaurant into a more generalized property that would be known for generous portions at affordable prices and high quality preparation to boot. They toyed with various different names that might be used, but while redesigning the building and preparing the new menu with their original chef (Bill and Noreen are both managers, though neither serve as cook or chef), they simply ran out of time.

The new restaurant was all ready to go, and there was no longer an opportunity to come up with a new name and design the necessary logo.

Rather than put off opening their doors, the decision was made to temporarily stick with Pier 57, then perhaps change the monicker as time went by. But there was always something else to do—hire a new chef, further redesign the interior or exterior for a more gracious appearance—-that took priority. Which is why, a decade after they’ve been here, it’s still Pier 57. The major point is to educate those who have previously passed on by that there’s a lot more going on inside than just fruits d’ mer.

Lets get the seafood out the way first, then, though if you’re a seafood fan, Pier 57 is a strong possibility. The ultra-fresh items run in price from $9.95 (fried clam tenders) to $26.95 (twin lobster tails). At various prices in-between, you can also find (in ascending order of price) fresh haddock, haddock Marinara, fantail shrimp, Boston baked haddock, shrimp scampi, fresh scallops, and Alaskan snow crab. For those with alarge appetite, there’s also a ‘Pier 57 Platter’ which features a combination of the seafood specialties for $15.95.

We tried several of the seafood items when my husband, son and I visited, and found that all the restaurant’s claims are delivered: The portions are huge, the preparation excellent.

For fans of Italian cuisine (and that usually means just about everyone in CNY), the menu listings are extensive enough to momentarily make you believe that, pier or no pier in the title, this is an authentic Italian restaurant. Prices here run from $7.95 (homestyle pasta) to $13.95 (linguini with clam sauce), and, again in ascending order in terms of expense, include via the in-between range such items as bakes stuffed shells, baked ziti, tortellini Marinara or Alfredo, Fettucini Alfredo, homemade eggplant Parmigiana, homemade lasagna, chicken parm, pasta primavera, chicken cacciatore, and veal parm.

Once again, there’s a house special platter, the Italian version of this extra large serving going for $11.95.

As we mentioned earlier, beef and chicken dishes are the house specialties. Chicken dishes (other than the aforementioned Italian-style preparations) run between $9.95 and $12.95. These include grilled marinated chicken, chicken Teriyaki, smothered chicken, chicken Marsala, and chicken served with broccoli, Alfredo style. The steaks, which run in price from $10.95 (London Broil) to $18.95 (12 oz Filet Mignon), also include fresh cut NY strip (12 oz) and filet mignon (12 oz).

Then there’s the main attraction: Prime rib, slow roasted, available as a queen cut (11-12 oz for $12.95) or the full pound King Cut ($16.95). Any of the beef items (or, for that matter, other items as well) can be topped off with fresh button mushrooms, sautéed in a Burgundy wine sauce, for an additional $1.95. We found the rib to be as tender as could be and cooked to perfection in terms of our specific order.

There are also combination platters: the 12 oz NY strip steak or the queen cut prime rib can be served with grilled chicken, fried or scampi-style shrimp, sea scallops, crab legs, or lobster tail for prices between $17.95 and $29.95. The chef in residence is Jody Kimball, also a Central New York native. Jody has worked in various locally owned restaurants since 1977 and joined Pier 57 3 _ years ago. Like Bill and Noreen, Jody is currently a Clay resident.

Jody’s own chef specials receive their due on the menu, and include such items as Delmonico Steak Sandwich ($9.95), Maryland Crab Cakes ($10.95), twin grilled pork chops ($11.95), and Clams Diavlo ($13.95), as well as various other chicken, fish, and beef ‘originals.’ My husband revels in crab cakes, and insists that you’ll find none better in our area than the ones here. Every evening there is, of course, a wide variety of desserts available.

There is also a banquet room that can sit up to sixty people. Additionally, PIER 57 can provide catering for various events and backyard parties. Take-out items include giant subs, pig roast or BBQs, chicken wings, and pulled pork with homemade fresh rolls, as well as salads of any kind, Italian or Swedish meatballs, and home made lasagna and eggplant Parm. Free delivery is provided for party and catering orders of $200.00 or more.

During the past tens years, Bill and Noreen have completely redecorated, adding a handsome fireplace, and coming up with their own concept for lighting via wall fixtures that are as attractive as they are functional. Gradually, lobster traps and fishing nets on the walls gave way to a more rustic look, with antiques and Americana. This is a value-oriented restaurant that lives up to its claims and reputation for large servings and high quality. For reservations or information about the catering services, call 315 457 – 8109. Please mention that you read about PIER 57 in the “Dining Out” column of TABLE HOPPING.